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Front Coupler Help

 

 

Home Activity Generator ActivityMaster Templates Patches & Updates Known Issues and FAQ Video Tutorials Forum Recommended Links General MSTS

Front Coupler Help

 

 


 


 


 

Home Activity Generator ActivityMaster Templates Patches & Updates Known Issues and FAQ Video Tutorials Forum Recommended Links General MSTS

Front Coupler Help

 

 


 

Home Activity Generator ActivityMaster Templates Patches & Updates Known Issues and FAQ Video Tutorials Forum Recommended Links General MSTS

Front Coupler Help

 

 

It's fairly likely that some activities you create using Switch List Generator may require you to use the front coupler (of course, if you really want to avoid this, you can.  When selecting spurs to work, you can choose only spurs that can be reached using your rear coupler).

Here are some ways you can reduce your frustration when using the front coupler.

MSTS Front coupler hints: 

  • Install the Microsoft Patch, which purports to address the front coupler issue.  (It helps but doesn't completely solve the problem).  The patch is available here.

  • Sometimes there are still problems and derailments when using the front coupler.  I recommend you save using F2 just before making any moves that will require the front coupler, so you can easily pick up from just before the coupling and try again.  Usually it’ll work the second time.  But it’s very frustrating to have to start the entire activity over again because of an MSTS bug!

  • As you’re getting ready to couple, try to make the join at 2 mph, 3 tops.

  • Use the ‘6’ view to get a countdown of how many feet to the join.  Press the “down arrow” to zoom out to get a better view of what’s coming up.

  • If it appears you didn’t really couple (the number of feet counts down, then goes negative or even back to positive), don’t despair.  Stop, then slowly reverse.  Often that reverse move will cause the couplers to catch.

  • If this doesn’t work, back up at least 20 feet, then proceed forward again.

  • To make sure you’re really coupled correctly, before pushing any rail cars, PULL BACK briefly.  Check the “Train ops” (F9) or listen for the coupling sound.  DON’T try and push it until you’ve verified you’ve really coupled, or you could derail or the program may even dump out.

  • UNCOUPLING from your front coupler is often a big challenge.  Here’s how to do it. 
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    First, set the locomotive brake (increase locomotive brake to about 50% or more). 

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    Uncouple using the F9 train ops screen as usual.

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    Next, reverse and go to throttle notch 1.  If your engine is moving, increase the locomotive brake until you’re standing still.

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    It's fairly likely that some activities you create using Switch List Generator may require you to use the front coupler (of course, if you really want to avoid this, you can.  When selecting spurs to work, you can choose only spurs that can be reached using your rear coupler).

    Here are some ways you can reduce your frustration when using the front coupler.

    MSTS Front coupler hints: 

    • Install the Microsoft Patch, which purports to address the front coupler issue.  (It helps but doesn't completely solve the problem).  The patch is available here.

    • Sometimes there are still problems and derailments when using the front coupler.  I recommend you save using F2 just before making any moves that will require the front coupler, so you can easily pick up from just before the coupling and try again.  Usually it’ll work the second time.  But it’s very frustrating to have to start the entire activity over again because of an MSTS bug!

    • As you’re getting ready to couple, try to make the join at 2 mph, 3 tops.

    • Use the ‘6’ view to get a countdown of how many feet to the join.  Press the “down arrow” to zoom out to get a better view of what’s coming up.

    • If it appears you didn’t really couple (the number of feet counts down, then goes negative or even back to positive), don’t despair.  Stop, then slowly reverse.  Often that reverse move will cause the couplers to catch.

    • If this doesn’t work, back up at least 20 feet, then proceed forward again.

    • To make sure you’re really coupled correctly, before pushing any rail cars, PULL BACK briefly.  Check the “Train ops” (F9) or listen for the coupling sound.  DON’T try and push it until you’ve verified you’ve really coupled, or you could derail or the program may even dump out.

    • UNCOUPLING from your front coupler is often a big challenge.  Here’s how to do it. 

      • First, set the locomotive brake (increase locomotive brake to about 50% or more). 

      • Uncouple using the F9 train ops screen as usual.

      • Next, reverse and go to throttle notch 1.  If your engine is moving, increase the locomotive brake until you’re standing still.

      • Let off the locomotive brake ever so slightly, until your engine just begins to move.  As you get further away, let off the brake some more.  If your train re-couples, you didn’t have enough brake.  Increase the brake, uncouple (using your mouse) and try again.

      • When you’re at least 10 feet away you can completely release the locomotive (independent) brake and let the engine move away at the speed of your choice.

    • If you get the cars where you want them but can’t see your engines on the F9 “train operations screen”, just uncouple as close to the engines as you can see on that screen.  Then, you’ll see more of the train, keep working your way through the train (uncoupling) until you’ve uncoupled the engines.